HISTORY OF
THE HANGI
Hāngi
(pronounced
[/haːŋi/])
is an ancient New Zealand
Māori
method of cooking food using super heated rocks
buried in the ground in a pit oven.
Modernised hangi methods are still used today
and are often saved for special occasions due to
the large amount of time and preparatory work
involved.
Prior to colonisation and the introduction of
metals and wire, food was laid out on clean
sticks, bark, large leaves and other vegetation
to minimise direct contact with the super hot
rocks and reduce burning. Carved bowls and flat
rocks were also used for this purpose. Leaves,
sticks and vegetation were used to cover the
food and to prevent crushing from the weight of
the earth on top.
These days, there are many different hangi
methods used. Wire baskets became widely used in
the early 19th century with sacking and cloth
replacing leaves and bark as the covering of
choice.
More recently, gas heated stainless steel "hangi
machines" have attempted to replicate the style
of cooking without need for a wood fire, rocks
and a pit. It has become a contentious issue as
to what constitutes a "real" or authentic hangi.
An
examination of a traditional hot rocks open
basket ground hangi reveals exactly how the food
obtains the unique flavour that many Kiwis have
come to love.
There are three main components to the cooking
process, all of which can be affected by many
variables including but not limited to earth
type, amount of heat in the rocks, quantity of
food and portion size, type of food and food
placement.
Steaming: Water added at the start of the
process creates steam instantly. Once covered,
the pit oven becomes a low pressure cooker.
Pressures in excess of 4 PSI have been measured.
Baking: Direct dry heat from the rocks creates
an oven roasting effect. Temperatures in excess
of 300°C have been measured.
Smoke: Fat and juices from
the meat drip onto the hot rocks and burn
causing smoke which appears to be the key to
hangi appearance, aroma and flavour. Often
there is also ash and
ember smoke that can add to the flavour and
appearance.
Hangi "experts" have developed and improved
methods that often, like the stones themselves
have been handed down for generations. The
following explains a common method.
To
"lay a hāngi" or "put down a hāngi" involves
digging a pit in the ground, heating stones in
the pit with a large fire, placing wire baskets
of food on top of the stones, and covering
everything with earth for several hours before
uncovering (or lifting) the hāngi. There are
many variations and details that can be altered.